How to choose a saddle that suits you and your horse

A saddle that suits both your horse and you avoids pressure points, back pain and an unsettled seat. Fit is judged on three things: your horse’s conformation, your own, and the discipline you ride. A poorly chosen saddle costs months of tension, resistance or subtle lameness. Taking the time to understand the criteria will spare you most mistakes.

The three things that really matter

The saddle must carry the rider’s weight without pressing on the spine or restricting the shoulders. It must also put you in a position where your aids stay precise and relaxed. The three factors interact: a saddle that fits your horse perfectly can still be wrong for you if the seat doesn’t suit your build.

Your horse’s conformation

Look first at the withers and back. The withers are the highest point, between the 3rd and 8th thoracic vertebrae, and their shape dictates the gullet width you need.

• High withers need a narrower gullet and a pommel with plenty of clearance.
• Flat or broad withers call for a wider gullet.
• A broad, round back needs panels that follow its curve without pressing at the sides.
• A short back limits the length of the panels; a longer back can take a longer saddle.

The saddle should rest on the muscles (trapezius and latissimus dorsi) and leave a clear channel along the spine. With the rider on board, you should be able to fit two to three fingers between the pommel and the withers. Behind the shoulder, the saddle must not restrict the movement of the shoulder blade. If the panel pinches the shoulder on the move, the horse stiffens or shortens its stride.

Your own build

Seat size (in inches) should match your pelvis and the length of your thighs. It is measured from the pommel to the cantle.

• About 16 to 16.5 inches for smaller riders or teenagers.
• 17 to 17.5 inches for most adults.
• 18 inches and over for larger riders.

Sitting deep in the saddle, you should have a hand’s width between your seat and the cantle. Too small, and the seat tips you back and locks your hips. Too big, and you slide forwards and lose contact with your leg aids. The depth of the seat and the shape of the flaps also affect how upright you sit. Long flaps help you lengthen your leg; short flaps favour a more forward position.

Your discipline

Each discipline calls for a slightly different position.

• Dressage: deep seat, long straight flaps, an upright, centred position.
• Show jumping: flatter seat, short forward-cut flaps to help with the light seat and forward balance.
• General purpose / hacking: an all-round compromise that copes with a bit of everything.
• Endurance or trail riding: often wider seats, sometimes with a more flexible tree for long hours in the saddle.

A well-fitted general-purpose saddle is enough for most leisure riders. For specialised competition, a dedicated model brings real comfort and extra precision.

How to try a saddle properly

Try it first on the horse alone, then with you on board, ideally in all three paces. A static fitting in the tack room is not enough.

1. Put the saddle on without a numnah first (or with a thin one) and check how the panels make contact. They should sit evenly, without gaps or hard spots.
2. Check that the gullet clears the withers and that the panels don’t pinch behind the shoulders.
3. Get on and ride in walk, trot and canter. The saddle should stay stable, without tipping forwards or sliding back. Watch, too, whether your horse tenses or changes its paces under the saddle.
4. After a few minutes, take the saddle off and look at the sweat mark on the back: it should be even, with no dry or pale patches (too much pressure) and no very red areas.

An experienced saddle fitter spots in minutes what an untrained eye takes many rides to notice. Don’t hesitate to call one in, especially for a first purchase or after a change of horse. The British Horse Society’s saddle fit advice is a good reference, including how to find a qualified saddle fitter.

Signs that a saddle doesn’t fit

Some clues appear quickly.

• Your horse won’t go forward or resists under the saddle.
• Its behaviour changes (tossing its head, grinding its teeth, resisting transitions).
• You struggle to sit upright or feel pushed forwards or backwards.
• After work, the back shows ruffled hair or sore spots.

These signs aren’t always down to the saddle alone (the bit, the training or existing pain can play a part), but they justify checking the fit first.

Care and follow-up

Even a well-chosen saddle needs keeping an eye on. Your horse’s back changes with age, feeding, work and even the season. A horse that builds muscle again at the end of winter no longer has the same back as in autumn. Have the fit checked at least once a year, or as soon as you feel unusual resistance under the saddle.

Clean and condition the leather regularly to keep it supple. Dry leather cracks, loses its shape and can create pressure points. After a ride in the rain, wipe it down and let it dry in the shade before conditioning. You’ll find leather care and saddle accessories in the shop.

Useful links

The saddle is only one piece of the puzzle: the bridle and the saddle pad count too, and the guides cover them one by one. Planning to buy a dressage, jumping or leisure horse? The horses for sale are presented one by one, and the stud page introduces who I am.

You can feel a saddle that fits straight away: your horse moves more freely, and you sit without fighting it. Take time over trying it and checking it. It is the best investment in a long partnership.