Buying a horse: a checklist and the essentials

Buying a horse commits horse and rider for years. A clear checklist covering paperwork, health, temperament and costs avoids most nasty surprises. Take time to watch, to ask questions and, ideally, to try the horse over several days.

The essential paperwork

First of all, check the horse’s identity and status. In Switzerland, as across the EU, horses must be identified. In Switzerland, every equine must also be registered in the Agate animal movement database: make sure it is before you buy.

• An up-to-date equine passport, with a readable microchip.
• A bill of sale signed by both parties, stating the price, any warranties and the horse’s known condition.
• Vaccination and worming records, ideally up to date.
• Ideally, the report of a recent pre-purchase vetting (including X-rays if the horse is meant for competition or is older).

A horse without a valid passport cannot travel legally or compete. Ask to see the originals and, if possible, check that the passport matches the microchip. A reputable seller hands over all the paperwork at the sale.

Looking the horse over

Watch the horse standing, on the move and, if possible, under saddle. Don’t settle for a quick show.

Standing and in hand

• General condition: coat, muscling, how the legs are set.
• Behaviour: calm or nervous, reaction to people, how easy it is to handle.
• Mouth, eyes, legs: signs of tension, old injuries or sensitivity.
• Feet: horn quality, recent shoeing or trimming, shape of the foot.

On the move

Have the horse walked, trotted and, if possible, cantered loose or on the lunge, on hard and soft ground. Look at the regularity of the paces, how well the hind legs step under and any subtle lameness that only shows in trot. Riding the horse yourself is essential as soon as its training and age allow. Ask to see the seller ride too, to compare its reactions.

An independent vetting remains your best protection. It can reveal problems you can’t see with the naked eye (old injuries, bone changes). For a competition horse, X-rays of the legs and sometimes the back are often requested. The cost is modest compared with a problem discovered too late.

Temperament and suitability

The horse must match your ability, your goals and your lifestyle. A horse that is too strong or too sensitive for you quickly becomes a source of stress.

• Novice or leisure rider: a calm, well-schooled horse that forgives mistakes and copes with changing surroundings.
• Experienced rider: a horse with more blood, experience or potential, depending on your ambitions.
• Leisure or competition: check the level already reached, the willingness to work and the behaviour out hacking or in company.

Ask precise questions about everyday life: behaviour in the field with other horses, when being tacked up, when travelling, with new things. A trial over several days, if the seller agrees, tells you more than an hour’s visit. Watch, too, how the horse behaves when it isn’t being “shown”.

Budget and running costs

The purchase price is only part of the budget. Plan over several years for:

• Livery or keeping the field (fencing, shelter, hay).
• The farrier (roughly every 6 to 8 weeks).
• The vet (annual vaccinations, worming, emergencies, any treatment).
• Feed, and supplements if the horse has particular needs.
• Tack (a well-fitting saddle, bridle, boots, rugs for the season).

These costs add up quickly. A “cheap” horse can end up costing more in treatment, livery or rehabilitation than a horse that has been well produced and cared for. Always ask for the horse’s health and training history, and compare with the horses for sale from the stud.

After the purchase

Prepare for the arrival: a suitable stable or field, a gradual change of feed over several days, and a settling-in period without pressure. A horse that changes surroundings needs time to feel safe and for its gut flora to adjust. Keep an eye on its appetite, droppings and behaviour during the first days.

Headcollar, lead rope, grooming kit, a saddle if needed: the tack for the first days is best sorted in advance, with the shop and the articles in the guides. Unsure about a particular horse or how to organise its arrival? Let’s talk through the contact page.

A successful purchase comes down to careful observation, clear paperwork, a vetting and an honest look at the long-term costs. Take your time. A good horse in the right place, with regular care, is worth more than a poorly prepared impulse buy.